Corporate social responsibility imperatives in the Moroccan textile-clothing sector : ways of implementation and impact on local value chains

This research examines the impact of codes of conduct imposed by international lead firms on subcontractors in Morocco’s textile and apparel sector. Based on a qualitative study conducted in the two main industrial hubs (Tangier and Casablanca), it explores the diffusion of corporate social responsibility (CSR) standards along the supply chain, their role in enhancing subcontractor capabilities, and their influence on inter-level relationships within the chain. The study highlights cross-cutting factors that place subcontractors in conditions that are not conducive to the effective implementation of CSR standards. It also shows that procedural audits associated with the enforcement of codes of conduct promote the spread of coercive isomorphism and foster a culture focused on strict compliance with formal rules. Furthermore, the research identifies two distinct profiles of subcontractors based on how they respond to institutional pressures to adopt these codes: those with minimal compliance, often engaging in rule-bypassing practices, and those adopting a proactive approach to internalising the standards. The study also uncovers factors explaining these divergent attitudes. Among the firms with a proactive stance, initiatives aimed at strengthening the capacities of their subcontractors are emerging. However, relationships with downstream actors in the supply chain remain characterised by a climate of mistrust, which limits the overall impact of these efforts.